Khartoum is a fascinating city which sadly doesn’t often get a look in as a potential travel destination. Fortunately, this is beginning to change, and in the last few years Sudan has witnessed a significant increase in tourism, with more and more people heading to its capital city to explore and discover it’s hidden delights. Depending on where you’re coming from Khartoum is not necessarily the easiest place to visit, often requiring lengthy visa applications and tricky immigration procedures; however, with a bit of perseverance and a penchant for filling in forms, you will be rewarded with an exciting up-and-coming destination, where colonial buildings and museums housing artefacts from some of the world’s oldest civilisations, rub shoulders with modern shopping malls and high end luxury hotels, all within reach of one of the world’s most iconic rivers. So, whether you enjoy racing around checking out museums, discovering ancient cultures and history, or maybe relaxing in the shade with a cup of hot sweet mint tea is more your style? Whatever your preference, you’ll be sure to find something to enjoy hidden in this lesser known capital. Check out my top five best things to do in Khartoum below for some inspiration for your own trip.
#1. The National Museum of Sudan
The Sudanese Republican Museum (and classic car showroom!)
Jump in a tuk-tuk and follow the East bank of the river Nile along the inventively named Nile Avenue towards the White Nile bridge. As you cruise past impressive looking hotels and the imposing palace, you’d be forgiven for not noticing the fairly sedate looking National Museum, however once inside you are confronted with the most incredible artefacts documenting millennia of culture and civilisation. I could have spent hours in here poring over the ancient exhibits beautifully preserved by the dry heat of the desert, glancing at the wonders of antiquity housed within. Here you will begin to understand some of Sudan’s Nubian culture and history, one of the earliest documented civilisations.
If you are looking for more contemporary Sudanese history, then head back North on Nile Avenue, and dog-leg behind the palace to find the Khartoum Republican Museum neatly hidden to the rear of the grand residence. Housed in an old church and flanked by a slightly out of place vintage car collection, this clean and compact museum maintains exhibits depicting modern Sudanese history, including the colonial era and Sudan’s independence. Most exciting for me was discovering a picture of my Great-Grandfather on the wall of this museum looking wonderfully bored at what appears to be quite an important meeting!
#2. Meeting of the Blue and White Nile
The meeting of the waters from the top floor bar of the Corinthia hotel…
Khartoum is built on the confluence of two major rivers which after joining, create one of the world’s most famous water ways: The River Nile. Although not particularly spectacular visually, this geographically significant location is definitely worth trying to have a look at whilst you’re in Khartoum. For the best view, take yourself to the top of the Corinthia Hotel and peer down over Tuti Islands to the confluence beyond.
If you prefer your geographical awesomeness more up close and personal, then head towards the White Nile bridge and buy yourself a ticket for the nearby theme park; from here you should be able to find a way down to the edge of the river and onto the confluence itself. For more detailed information about the meeting of the Blue and White Nile, check out my blog post about it here.
#3. The Mahdi’s Tomb
The dome of the Mhadi’s tomb glowing in the midday sun…
If you cross over the White Nile bridge, you will find yourself in Omdurman on the west bank of the Nile. Although part of modern-day Khartoum, Omdurman used to be the old Mhadist capital of Sudan, and it definitely has a more traditional feel compared to the rapidly developing city centre on the other side of the river. Sometimes referred to as the beating heart of Sudan, it is worth trying to track down a tuk-tuk driver to take you to the tomb, as finding it amongst the twisting and confusing streets can be difficult.
Despite the shiny and clean exterior, The Mahdi’s tomb and accompanying museum tells a much darker story of Sudan’s turbulent colonial past. It was here that various British generals were killed in response for ordering the killing of Sudanese liberation fighters, including the Mahdi himself, who was self-appointed leader of the rebellion.
When The Mahdi was killed, his successor built a tomb opposite his house to recognise the sacrifice he had made in trying to rid Khartoum of its invaders. True to form, this tomb was subsequently destroyed by the British, but a new one has since been built, and it is quite the impressive building surrounded by lush green palms and topped with a bright white dome to reflect the strong sun. The wood and mud house of Kalifa opposite is less impressive, but the historical displays and artefacts within are much more interesting and serve to tell this important but brutal story.
#4. Whirling Dervishes at the Al-Nid Tomb
Revellers gather as the sun sets behind the Al-Nid Tomb…
Staying on the West side of the Nile, the Al-Nil tomb can also be found deep in the heart of Omdurman. On any other day, this unremarkable dusty patch of land covered in mounds of earth inhabited by the recently deceased wouldn’t be worth mentioning, however all that changes at the start of the weekend.
Every Friday the Al-Nid tomb is transformed by the arrival of hundreds of people who flock from all over the city and beyond to witness the chanting and dancing of the legendary Whirling Dervishes. Dressed in brightly coloured robes with all sorts of accoutrements attached, the Dervishes stand in the middle of the large crowd and begin leading them in a series of chants to Allah; these eerie chants slowly increase in volume and tempo all carefully followed by the loud beat of the drums played by a band of nearby musicians. As the chants reach their crescendo, the Dervishes begin to jump and spin themselves into a frenzy the likes of which has to be seen to be believed. The only way to spend a Friday night in the Sudanese capital.
#5. Food and Drink
Classic riverside dish of fried Nile Perch with a side of onion, lime, and fuul - delicious!
Let’s be honest for a moment, Khartoum is hot, and wandering around in the middle of the day can be an exhausting activity. Fortunately for the thirsty tourist, there are plentiful juice bars dotted around the city where you can always get a deliciously refreshing orange or mango juice. If hot beverages are more your things, then you are always within ten meters of a tea stand where you will be able to indulge your sweet tooth with a syrupy mint tea, and put the world to rights with the whole spectrum of people who call Khartoum home.
Sudanese cuisine isn’t something you’re likely to see championed on Masterchef anytime soon, which is a real shame, as its delicious simplicity is well worth seeking out. If you’re near the river, then definitely check out the fried fish restaurants, where you can guarantee to be served up freshly caught Nile perch, or head into the middle of the city for beautifully succulent shawarma or lamb cuts. Whether you’ve gone for meat or fish, both dishes will be served with freshly cooked flat breads, chunky onion and lime garnish, and the Sudanese staple, fuul: soaked lima beans which add that extra element which completes the dish.
Have you been to Khartoum? Do you agree with my list? Perhaps you have another must-see location? I’d love to hear from you. Why not head over to my contact page and let me know what you think?